Yes, there are (legitimate) installers that will put free solar panels for your home. But the catch is that they require you to enter into a solar lease or power purchasing agreement (PPA). These offers entice people with a no-cost way to go solar. In most cases, the roof would only need to be painted white or topped with an aluminum sheet. To give you an idea of the solar reflectance of several finishes, for example, white paint has an absorptance of 0.2 and a solar reflectance is 0.79. A Few Facts on Solar Government Tax Credits. The solar power system installed must be new.

Hi, I want to install a solar panels on the roof but how much do solar panels cost for a 1500 square foot house? Solar energy is a clean source of energy that can be harnessed by photovoltaic cells. These cells capture the sun's energy and then convert it into direct current DC electricity. The Solar Panels On Your Roof ARE NOT Yours! The reality is that you do not own the solar system ( or the SRECs ), and the solar energy that the panels produce is not free. Under solar lease agreements or PPA, ownership is retained by the solar company, and you pay for the electricity it produces. In essence, the company has built a small power. If you’ve been shopping around for a solar panel system, you’ve probably heard at least one company advertise ‘free solar panels’ – that they will install a solar energy system on your roof for free. But, much as with anything, remember that there is no such thing as a free lunch (or a free solar panel).

Solar power becomes mainstream but stays quite a challenge. How do I install PV panels properly? Won’t they be carried away with the upcoming storm? Is there any alternative to railings? Is it worth buying? Keep breathing, I got your back covered – here is an ultimate guide on how to mount solar panels on the roof.

Your decision on switching to “green energy” – wind, solar, biomass or other sustainable sources, – is a bear fruit. Not to forget about lowering energy bills (or, maybe someday getting rid of them!) you’re also deriving numerous health benefits. Living in a “green household’ reduces indoor air pollutions. Long term, this leads to less bronchitis, asthmas or cardiovascular diseases. And of course, your intention to generate electricity from the sun saves the environment of the planet and – in the end – helps us all.

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I find it a quick and easy way to get as much close as possible to net-zero energy consumption. Even if you’re planning to be 100% on solar, I recommend to stay on-grid (i.e. not to disconnect from the local utility company). In this case, you can store the oversupply for later inside the grid and take as much as you need instead of buying batteries and accumulate the excess electricity at home. Also, I insist on the accurate planning: choosing a proper type of panels according to your budget, taking time to design a perfect solar kit considering climate, shading, roof orientation, etc., figuring out the “sun hours” (not the same as “daylight, can be calculated online depending on your location). There’ll be no other chance to re-think those steps so don’t you ever save on them!

Be prepared

I agree the constructors are pricey. Especially after you’ve already paid a fortune. For those who are familiar with a tool belt and a drill, installation won’t be tricky. Your first mounting might take a couple of days (in comparison, professionals can handle it in 4-10h). Here’s a list of what you’ll need while mounting solar panels on a metal roof (or any other type of roofing).

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Tools:

hammer
drill
allen key
metal cutting saw
ruler, tape measure, pen, marker, level, and other marking and measuring tools
ladders, scaffolding (if needed) and fall protection equipment (obligatory)

Advanced tip:

People don’t take it seriously, but professionals insist that at least a team of two is needed to work on a rooftop. In case of a fainting spell or a heat stroke, your co-worker will be able to call for help. Also, two pairs of hands are usually better than one.

Before we get to the materials and supplies, let’s figure with what they call “mounting system” or “solar racking”. Basically, there are two types of them. Rail-based are the classics: PV panels are fastened to a guiding rail that holds them securely in place. This system has almost no limitations and suitable for any weather or roof type. Also, it allows more options considering the tilt (unlike rail-free, where you only have to follow the slope of the roof). At last, a rail provides a wider gap between the panel and the roof surface, so you can place any additional devices (i.e. solar micro-inverter, power optimizer, etc.)

As for rail-free systems, they are more compact, light-weighted and fit in one box. Fewer components to install means quicker and easier to handle. Also, if there is a lot of obstacles on the rooftop, rails won’t be the solution. Nevertheless, you should avoid rail-free mounting on a crooked roof or in the windiest regions.

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There is a third option combining the previous two. A shared rail is when two rows of PV panels share one middle rail. Such halving brings us to fewer roof penetrations and speeds up the installation.

Most solar mounting systems have a list of common components:

flashings – to protect your roof from leaks. These pads are usually made of galvanized steel, copper and aluminum, but also might combine with rubber or plastic. I tend to those light-weighted flashings (such as QB2, SolarFlash or E-Mount) which require one single bolt for installation.
mounts (aka feet) – to attach the whole solar array to the roof surface with or without a rail. Most commonly come in L-shape. I crave for all-purpose SnapNRack L-foot, Unirac Solarmount and Pegasus Solar for their convenience and compatibility with most rail systems.
rails – to form the PV array and hold it safely in place. Also, to hide the wires and special devices. Manufactured in aluminum, stainless steel, DIY-ed of wood. My choice is Power Rails which uses one single tool for faster bolt placement, and very versatile Ultra Rail.
clamps – to put between two solar modules or at the end of the rail and hold them in place. I find EZ Standing Seam clamp and HQ clamps easy to install and very affordable.

Any other options?

Here’s the list of alternatives – in case you don’t want to poke a lot of holes through the roof.

Ballasted mounting system uses weights, or ballasts, which act as supports and hold PV panels in place. In other words, there is a “tray” and multiple concrete blocks that press it down and won’t let fly away. Better use it on a flat roof. As an example, consider the EconoRack 2.0 that has only 3 components and a pre-attached roof protection mats made of rubber. Also, it has an option to customize the tilt angle and roof orientation.

Anchored PR racking is another good way to minimize holes in the roof and avoid any potential leaks. It works on concrete roof slabs. The support frame is attached strictly to the slabs. While designing such a layout, you should minimize the number of penetration points and seal each one properly. I recommend KB Racking AnchorRack as an option. It’s fixed in its place with wooden screws and high-quality flashings. Also, it permits tilting and is very flexible in panel orientation.

No-drill mounts stick to the roof surface by the very strong adhesive layer. There’re two reasons it’s not as popular as it could be are. First,the price. For a 100 watts panel you’ll need 4 feet. When it comes to more than 150 W panel, you need to buy 8. Secondly, the glue doesn’t adhere properly to rubber roofing, old-fashioned types of tiles and shingles. If you’re looking for such mounts, pay attention to Renogy Corner Bracket mounts or Sticky Feet RV mounts – they allow creating any tilt, and all you need to do is to find a piece of flat and smooth surface to stick it onto. For a slope roof, think of the Solar Pod Crown.

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Without further ado let’s learn how to install solar panels step by step. This is easier than you think!

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Find the perfect placement for your panels, d